I have resolved to cook my way through Jamie's Italy. I think there are about 120 recipes in the book so it will be quite a challenge but a good diversion. This book has captured Italian cooking in a way no other book has ever done for me. It is a passionate story about the way Italians really cook and what they eat, and he has gathered excellent recipes from village to village. The ingredients, the way the food is cooked with such emotion, and the simplicity of flavors -- all remind me of family gatherings, whether in Italy or in my child- and adulthood in New York.
My first venture in the book is serious comfort food - a beautiful and tasty risotto. I think it was a great beginning. The fennel gives it sweet edge, a perfect contrast to the ricotta salata I used. If you can't find ricotta salata, a crumbly goat cheese makes a very good substitute ("pretty damn good" according to Jamie)

risotto ai finocchi con ricotta e peperoncino
(fennel risotto with ricotta and dried chilli)
1/2 tsp fennel seeds;
extra virgin olive oil;
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely sliced;
2 bulbs fennel, finely sliced, herby tops reserved;
sea salt and freshly ground pepper;
1 x risotto bianco;
2 small dried chillies;
4 tbsp good crumbly ricotta (I used ricotta salata);
zest and juice of 1 lemon;
parmesan cheese, for grating.
Put your fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar and bash up to a powder. Get a wide, hot saucepan, add a couple of splashes of olive oil and fry the garlice until softened, then add the bashed fennel seeds and sliced fennel. Add a pinch of salt and pepper and turn down to a medium-low heat. Place a lid on the pan and cook nice and slowly for around 20 minutes, until the fennel's soft and sweet.
Start the risotto bianco as usual and continue through the recipe until the rice is half cooked. Half-way through Stage 3, stir in the sauted fennel, then keep cooking the risotto until the rice is perfectly cooked.
Bash up the dried chillies in the pestle and mortar until you have a fine powder. At Stage 4, when you add the butter and Parmesan, add the crumbled ricotta and lemon zest. Check the seasoning carefully and balance the flavour with as much lemon juice as you feel it needs to work with the fennel. Divide between your plates, sprinkle over your fennel tops and dust with the ground chilli. Grate over some fresh Parmesan at the table.
Recipe is Copyright © 2003-2006 Jamie Oliver
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