Trapani, Sicily
Think I can spend the day sitting on one of the three enormous balconies in this upstairs apartment (2 are enormous, one is just long but with a spectacular view of the mountain). It is warm and partly sunny, and I've just changed into a tank top. It's not yet the season for bare arms, no matter how warm, and I committed a huge faux pax by wearing Doc Marten open toed sandles and a sleeveless shirt yesterday. I was resigned to wearing a sweater over it and avoiding the stares of the coat & closed-shoe population. One giftless shoe saleswoman actually commented on my attire, and ZA provided "She's not from Italy."
Last night I sobbed about (something). Now nursing puffy eyes, looking down over lemon trees. I can feel the heat of the sun through my jeans -- must be at least 25 degrees (C).
Tonight a gathering is planned for 50 + people at an agri-tourism hotel/restaurant where the wedding guests are staying. It is the night before L and D's wedding. There is some secrecy about a heart-cake which is being made. Trying to remember the point of life and travelling and being away from one's home and in another country. The mass confusion surrounding a Sicilian wedding. The ability to leave chairs outside.
From Trapani to Castellamare and back again:
Drove with L and C -- arrived at the summer house where D's family is staying. Stood around for awhile. I was never really quite sure what was going on. We then got in cars again -- a 5 car procession -- drove by the beach without getting back, then circled back along the mountain to the port of Castellamare. We stood around the port for awhile. At around 11:30 a.m I started to get hungry. We all got in cars again and drove back to the house in Castellamare, and stood around. We got back in the cars and drove back to Trapani. It was kind of theatrical, an elegant chaos. ZT pulled over on the highway so that we could trade ZA for D's father -- to mix the two families up a bit, get to know the in-laws type-thing. Finally, nearing home, we got into a car accident. Though the fault belonged to the other driver -- a trembling silent old man with thick glasses who looked nearly as confused as I was -- I felt sorry for him when people tumbled out of 5 cars and began to surround him, yelling. I was, however, able to promptly supply a pen and Apotheke paper to my cousin G through the window.
I am currently laying low in my room for a bit -- many people downstairs. I know it won't last very long; I'll have to join them in the pre-wedding festivities soon. Would love to go back out on the balcony. If there was food downstairs, I might be coerced ... ahh, just heard my name ...
7 p.m
Went to a restaurant to eat lunch -- Sicily has the best food. The antipasti table was filled with beautiful fresh crustaceans and fish, and vegetables of every sort. Then the waiters began to dole out pasta, two kinds. Then the main course, family style portions passed around over friendly shouts. I watched the huge plates parade down a table of 25 people. Then children were passed around. I smiled to myself as I went outside for some air. The streets were deserted, and I wandered a few blocks away before heading back.
After lunch, some of us drove to Erice. I caught a ride with my cousin G, and sat in the back seat with baby Olga. She had cheeks like ripe peaches and laughed, and grabbed her feet.
Erice is a city perched at the very top of a mountain ... it has a scientific history and castles built into the cliffs ... is has panoramic views that leave you gasping ... it has a Venus temple, a famous scientific center, pottery shops, icecream cafes, and streets paved with chunky cobblestone. I went off with cousin C for awhile, who showed me around and whispered lore about the Venus temple at me. I really enjoyed her company. We talked and wandered. I bought a Sicily symbol for K. She is someone who seems preoccupied with inner thoughts, she has wide intelligent eyes, she is tall and lithe and brown and enormously innocent.
Long drive home.
